This glitzy Middle Eastern metropolis is dizzying and dynamic, a place that is renowned as a showcase for world-beating, super-modern structures, yet also has a traditional cobblestone heart. Rob Chilton provides an insider guide.
Typically for Dubai, the city’s premier cruise port is vast and teems with activity at all hours of the day, providing a fitting introduction to the city’s frenetic – and addictive – pace of life. If New York is the city that never sleeps, Dubai is the city that never sits still. It may not be picturesque but Port Rashid , which was built in the 1970s, is undoubtedly impressive and, like many other neighborhoods in Dubai, it is undergoing rapid refurbishment that will transform it from a functional transport hub into a fabulous lifestyle hotspot.
The clash of past and present is a common theme in Dubai and infuses every street with a thrilling sense of change. From Port Rashid, visitors can see a fascinating snapshot of Dubai old and new. In the foreground are low-rise Old Town neighborhoods such as Al Fahidi, Al Karama, and Deira – atmospheric jumbles of streets, people, and traffic dotted with the numerous minarets of the city’s mosques. Just a few miles distant, beyond the Old Town, is Downtown Dubai, a jagged parade of modern skyscrapers – including Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world. They symbolize not only the sheer wow factor of this magnificent city and the United Arab Emirates as a whole, but how Dubai has boomed in the past 30 years to become a globally renowned destination for tourism, commerce, and multiculturalism.
One of the world’s fastest-growing cruise destinations, Dubai welcomed about 200 luxury liners in 2024, with Port Rashid busy at work 365 days a year. As well as Downtown Dubai, passengers cruising into Port Rashid are treated to a front-row view of the QE2, a maritime icon from yesteryear that is now a hotel and popular tourist attraction, while, across the Arabian Gulf, are the recognizable Dubai Frame and the famous fronds of Palm Jumeirah.
Port Rashid passenger terminal offers an efficient, modern, and gleaming gateway to a city that oozes glamour, wealth, and jaw-dropping architecture. Inside the spacious terminal, a good variety of cafés and small shops offer snacks and drinks, plus souvenirs of Dubai. From the port, a fleet of taxis awaits to catapult visitors into a Middle Eastern metropolis that is dizzying and dynamic.
What to see in Dubai
Thanks to the 14-lane Sheikh Zayed Road highway that runs through the city, visitors to Dubai can cover a lot of ground at great speed, which means even a short trip can be rewarding. Art lovers should head straight for Alserkal Avenue, (11 miles, 23 minutes), Dubai’s flourishing cultural district and beloved indie enclave, which for many is a surprising and welcome contrast to the giant malls and five-star hotels for which the city is famous. Alserkal Avenue is a vibrant pedestrianized area filled with warehouses containing upmarket galleries displaying diverse collections of art and sculpture from artists around the world, such as Morteza Khazaie, Nima Nabavi, Nabil Anani, and Reza Derakshani. Galleries to look out for include The Third Line, Leila Heller Gallery, and Zawyeh Gallery, while Gulf Photo Plus presents expertly curated images by renowned photographers such as Augustine Paredes and Behzad Khorasavi Noori that tell the story of the Middle East both past and present.
Next, browse Alserkal’s boutiques such as Nappa Dori (small leather goods), Montroi (accessories), Zerzura (vintage books and posters), The Good Life (sneakers), Jaipur Rugs (textiles), or The Edit (womenswear concept store). Then take a breather at one of the local trendy cafés and watch Dubai’s art community go about daily life. Nightjar is always bustling and serves a strong brew from expertly roasted coffee beans; Nala, with its easy-to-spot lilac frontage, occupies a breezy place in the inner courtyard; Bkry serves award-winning pastries; while Pekoe Tea & Bread Bar is a peaceful hideaway. Chocolate addicts should seek out Ganache Chocolatier. For a light lunch, head to Kokoro, one of Dubai’s most talked-about new venues, which presents lovingly handmade sushi rolls.
Dubai is rightly regarded as being the epitome of modernity, but a few hours in the fascinating Al Fahidi Historical District (three miles, 16 minutes) will remind you that it was a thriving port and trading hub in the early 1800s.
Slip on your sneakers and wander around the tangle of Al Fahidi’s winding streets to get an idea of how Dubai once looked before the discovery of oil transformed its future. In sharp contrast with the glittering skyscrapers elsewhere in the city, Al Fahidi is packed with traditional, humble buildings in the Emirati style, with cobbled streets beneath your feet and sand-colored walls standing against a bright blue sky. Look up to see the ingenious wind towers that kept inhabitants cool by using natural ventilation.
You’ll find a number of cafés and restaurants serving Emirati food – try Arabian Tea House. There are also museums that explore Dubai’s cultural heritage, such as the Coffee Museum, which shows how the revered drink has played an important role in Arabic hospitality from the times of the Bedouin to the present day. Galleries including XVA Gallery celebrate Arabic art with exhibitions of calligraphy and paintings as well as displays of contemporary mixed media that touch on topics including nature and the region’s landscape. Nearby shops are packed with local fabrics, jewelry, and handcrafts that show how traditional Arabic skills are being preserved by modern-day artisans.
To squeeze in one more cultural experience, make the five-minute journey across Dubai Creek in a traditional abra boat, a rugged, motorized wooden water taxi with bench seating and a small roof. You’ll arrive at the Al Ras neighborhood, home to the fragrant, colorful Spice Souk. Turmeric, black pepper, cardamon, saffron, or the ubiquitous zaatar (a blend of thyme, sesame seeds, sumac, oregano, marjoram, and salt) could make evocative souvenirs of your time in Dubai.
One of the most incredible manmade creations in the world, Palm Jumeirah (20 miles, 33 minutes) continues to mesmerize tourists and is a must-visit. Opened in 2007, this beautiful fan of 16 fronds is symbolic of Dubai’s ambition, ingenuity, and “anything-is-possible” attitude. The Palm is home to luxury apartments and villas, plus more than a dozen five-star hotels, including the famous Atlantis Resort. This distinctive hotel contains The Lost Chambers Aquarium and Aquaventure World, the world’s largest waterpark with more than 100 heart-racing slides. Taking luxury to the next level just down the road is Atlantis The Royal, a hotel that opened in January 2023 to incredible fanfare. Non-residents can visit the hotel, the valet area of which is usually occupied by several million-dollar supercars belonging to guests. Walk through the lobby and past the 36-feet-high stainless-steel sculpture of water drops, plus you can watch the Skyblaze fountain and fire show after dark. For an indulgent treat try afternoon tea at The Royal Tearoom from award-winning chef Christophe Devoille, available every day from 2pm to 5pm. Away from the hotel, stroll along the boardwalk that encircles the Palm and marvel at its palatial five-star resorts while feeling the sea breeze of the Arabian Gulf.
To see Palm Jumeirah from 800 feet above ground level, visit The View, an observation deck on the 52nd floor of Palm Tower. From here, you’ll see the fronds laid out before you, Dubai Marina’s cluster of skyscrapers towards the south, and the trio of Jumeirah’s famous nautical-themed hotels to the north: Burj Al Arab (the sail), Jumeirah Beach Hotel (the wave) and the latest addition that opened in March 2025, Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab (the cruise liner).
Just two floors below The View is Aura Skypool, which has two claims to fame: the world’s first and highest 360-degree infinity pool. Book a time slot here between sunrise (6am) and nightfall (11pm) for a memorable dip, and enjoy food and drinks poolside or in the restaurant.
Conclude your Palm Jumeirah adventure with a stop at Palm West Beach (a 10-minute drive from Atlantis Resort), a laidback strip of sand on the trunk of the Palm, with beachfront restaurants, bars and beach clubs, and a boardwalk popular with joggers and dog walkers with Dubai Marina as a backdrop.
Going to Dubai and skipping the Burj Khalifa is like visiting Paris and ignoring the Eiffel Tower. Attracting almost 20 million visitors every year, the world’s tallest building, at 2,716 feet, is a truly astonishing sight, dominating the Dubai skyline wherever you are in the city. Beat the crowds and visit the observation decks on the 124th and 125th floors from 7am, or you can take a trip skywards as late as 11pm. As well as mind-boggling views of the city far below – including, on a clear day, the Palm – you’ll gain interesting insights into how this architectural marvel was constructed.
Back on planet Earth, after exiting Burj Khalifa you’ll find yourself on the impressive Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Boulevard, an elegant avenue from where you can admire Dubai Opera. The design of this beautiful performing arts venue is based on an old Arabic fishing boat called a dhow to evoke Dubai’s maritime heritage, while its latticed façade echoes the mashrabiya screens that are typical in Islamic architecture. Neighboring the opera house is another of the city’s icons, Dubai Mall, the world’s largest shopping and entertainment venue, filled with luxury boutiques as well as high-street stores, cafés, restaurants, and attractions. Wander the gleaming paths of this gargantuan retail empire and browse the extraordinary window displays by the world’s most luxurious brands. Check out Chinatown, the ice rink, and the four-story waterfall featuring sculptures of diving men, before gazing in wonder at the 30-foot-high Dubai Aquarium tank.
As dusk descends, you’ll just have time to leave the mall via the Souk Al Bahar exit and visit the Dubai Fountain directly outside on Burj Lake. Every 30 minutes from 6pm to 11pm, the world’s tallest performing fountains (reopening autumn 2025 following a renovation) spray water jets more than 330 feet into the air with an accompanying light and music show. With Burj Khalifa twinkling in the background, it’s a spectacular sight.
How to spend an evening
There’s a good chance you’ll lose your way at Souk Madinat Jumeirah but don’t worry, that’s part of the fun. This labyrinthine modern souk inside the plush Madinat Jumeirah luxury hotel (14 miles, 23 minutes) recreates a historic Arabic bazaar with dozens of stalls and shops staffed by enthusiastic traders eager to show you their wares. As the aroma of exotic incense fills the air, meander through its lively indoor alleys, where you’ll find clothing, accessories, textiles, and countless trinkets in the Arabic style. Grab a bite to eat, a coffee or an ice cream in the souk’s 20 or so bars, cafés and restaurants, or buy a ticket for TODA (Theatre of Digital Art), an immersive show in which digital art is projected on walls behind live musicians as they perform classical music. Where Souk Madinat Jumeirah really comes to life, however, is outside on its tranquil turquoise waterway. Walk along the water’s edge, take a boat ride on an abra, stop for a nightcap on the waterfront, criss-cross the canal’s bridges, and capture a photo with the Burj Al Arab in the background to round off a memorable evening in Dubai.
How to get around
Crystal runs shuttle buses to the nearest town or city on many of its cruises. When onboard, check departure points and times in your copy of our daily bulletin, Reflections.
To book a taxi, please inquire at the Concierge desk. Alternatively, there is a taxi rank just outside the main terminal building. Taxis are clean, safe, and affordable – many are now electric vehicles – and widely available across all areas of the city. Ride-hail services such as Careem and Uber are popular. As an example, a taxi from Port Rashid to Dubai Mall in the center of the city takes approximately 20 minutes.
The nearest major bus station to Port Rashid is Al Ghubaiba in the Al Fahidi district (four miles, 16 minutes). Buses that depart from here include the 29 that stops at Dubai Mall, the 9 for Business Bay, and the 93 which stops at Mall of the Emirates. For timetables and fares go to rta.ae.
The nearest metro station to Port Rashid is Al Ghubaiba on the Green Line (five miles, 15 minutes). Fast, clean, and air conditioned, Dubai Metro has two lines, Red and Green. Al Ras (five miles, 15 minutes) and Gold Souk (three miles, 14 minutes) are also on the Green Line. Change to the Red Line at Union or Burjaman to travel quickly to stations such as Burj Khalifa/Dubai Mall (15 minutes), Mall of the Emirates (26 minutes), and Sobha Realty, which gives direct access to Dubai Marina Mall (24 minutes). For timetables and fares go to rta.ae.
Keen to encourage an active lifestyle for its residents, Dubai authorities have installed an extensive network of cycle paths in some areas of the city in recent years. To explore Dubai’s quieter neighborhoods, download the Careem app, set up an account, and then find your nearest bike station, where you will be able to pick up a pedal-assisted electric bicycle. The nearest Careem station to Port Rashid is Al Shindagha on the Dubai Creek waterfront near Arabian Boutique Hotel (three miles, nine minutes).
Like much of Dubai, Port Rashid is not serviced by easily accessible sidewalks, which means that walking to and from the port is unfeasible.
Dubai has worked hard to be inclusive and forward-thinking in terms of making attractions and facilities accessible for everyone, including visitors. Accessible taxis can be booked in advance online with Dubai Taxi Corporation or by calling 800 88088 toll free. For more information on accessible travel, Visit Dubai has a dedicated section on its official website.
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