Saffron buildings baking in sunshine, emerald pine trees that scent the wind, a turquoise sea bobbing with boats… Our insider, Alexis Steinman, reveals why cosmopolitan Marseille is the heart and soul of the Mediterranean.
Arriving in Marseille retraces the journey of its founding more than 2,600 years ago. Phocaean explorers from ancient Greece chose the city for its prime trading perch. As legend has it – and the Marseillais love to tell tales – a sailor, Protis, wed a local girl, Gyptis. The multicultural love story planted the seed for Marseille’s rich diversity, shaped by centuries of global goods and communities that have arrived in its harbor. On approach, Marseille’s coastline illustrates the city’s striking contrasts: stunning limestone cliffs unfurl above terracotta-topped buildings that spill into the Mediterranean’s third-largest commercial port.
Located in the north of the city, Marseille Provence Cruise Terminal (MPCT) proudly reigns as the biggest of its kind in France. The letters of the city’s name are spelt out across the hills in the style of the Hollywood sign to welcome the growing film and TV industry that often shoots here. Behind them, the jagged Massif de l’Étoile forms a semicircular amphitheater that hugs the city, almost in a nod to Marseille’s Greek roots. The city’s topography turns its back on the rest of the country and opens its arms wide to the Mediterranean, offering a briny and boisterous mix of cosmopolitan cultures and Provençal tradition.
The Marseille Provence Cruise Terminal is five miles from the Vieux-Port (city center) and four miles from the historic maritime neighborhood of La Joliette. It is in an active commercial port and industrial neighborhood, so you will need to take a taxi or public transport to reach the city. Since MPCT opened in 2009, it has become the Mediterranean’s fourth-largest cruise port, with six terminals sittinginside the commercial port. Just north lies the fishing village of L’Estaque, once home to the artist Paul Cézanne, who was lured by the views of ochre tiles, green pines, and blue sea. MPCT does not have eateries or shops on site; Marseille’s treasures are all found to the south – you just need to take a short ride to unearth them.
What to see in Marseille
To get a taste of Marseille in a couple of hours, take a taxi from the boat to maximize exploring time. First stop, the Vieux-Port harbor, where fishermen display their freshly caught wares at the daily fish market as seagulls squawk above. Snap photos beneath the Norman Foster mirrored canopy, Ombriére, a meeting point and performance space, then promenade along the north side of the harbor, past the pleasure boats, for about a mile to Fort Saint-Jean. This towering 17th-century fortress was built to protect the harbor, though Louis XIV once pointed the canons at Marseille – its citizens are renowned for their rebellious spirit.
Enter via the fort’s arched doorway and ramble through its labyrinth of pathways to reach the skinny pedestrian bridge to Mucem. The Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations hosts exhibitions on Africa, Europe, and the Middle East – the continents and regions that border the Med. You have limited time to look around but the sight of the show-stopping architecture – a futuristic concrete cube inspired by ancient Mesopotamia – is worth the trip alone. Wander the walkways to the rooftop café to savor Michelin-rated chef Alexandre Mazzia’s take on street food. At the Grotte Cosquer exhibit in the white building next to Mucem, marvel at realistic reproductions of 27,000-year-old cave paintings discovered in a nearby grotto.
Marseille is ready for its close-up in Le Panier. The city’s oldest neighborhood is one of its most atmospheric. Narrow streets wind around pastel façades strung with laundry blowing in the breeze while eye-catching street art illustrates the district’s creative side. Pick up exquisite figurines (santons) at Arterra, and vintage pastis pitchers at Curios. The salty, black ice cream at Vanille Noire deliciously stains your tongue. Rub shoulders with local notables at Chez Etienne (43 Rue de Lorette), which has become an institution for its wood-fired moitié-moitié (half anchovy/half cheese) pizzas since opening in 1943.
Paris has the Eiffel Tower, Marseille’s beacon is a golden virgin and child statue that beams from the top of Notre Dame de la Garde. Take the easy route and make your pilgrimage by private tuktuk on a one-hour round-trip from the Vieux-Port. Inside the basilica, the ceiling and altar are covered in glittering mosaics, while the wooden boats that hang from the ceiling were brought as offerings from local fisherman. Outside, the 360-degree view from the esplanade by the entrance to the basilica shows off the city’s sprawl; bullet holes on the eastern façade bear witness to the battle in World War II that freed the city. Worship Provençal cuisine in the church’s fantastic restaurant tucked away on the third floor.
Head downhill for a coffee or a bite in Vauban at Carlotta With, a hub for the neighborhood’s hipsters. A mile away, in the Noailles neighborhood, it feels like you’re traversing the full gamut of Mediterranean cultures and cuisines as you meander past the fragrant food stalls and spice shops that give this multicultural souk its nickname, the “belly of Marseille”. Tuck into Algerian barley couscous at La Femina chez Kachetel and garlicky Tunisian chickpea soup(leblebi) at Chez Yassine. Shop for edible souvenirs at the cool market-café Épicerie Idéal, and for Provence’s post-feast cure, lemon verbena (verveine) tea, at Père Blaize, a circa-1815 herbalist. Pick up a fouta, the traditional Mediterranean beach towel, at home decor shop Jiji la Palme d’Or.
Noailles’ pièce de résistance is Maison Empereur. France’s oldest hardware store, dating from 1827, is a treasure trove of more than 50,000 heritage goods, from refined Opinel knives to Marseille’s eponymous olive-oil soap and tarot cards. Take a break in the vintage café tucked beside the bakeware. For a spot of pampering, enjoy a steam or body scrub at La Bastide des Bains hammam.
Follow in the footsteps of famous writers and see Marseille like a flâneur. France’s second-largest city is a collection of 111 villages, each with its own personality. To start, a coffee, of course. Like many ingredients in France, coffee first arrived in the country via Marseille’s bustling port. The hidden balcony at vintage sailor bar La Caravelle has one of the best views of the boats to enjoy with your coffee. Then head away from the harbor along Marseille’s main boulevard, La Canebière, where the Belle Époque Palais de la Bourse features seafaring iconography including Poseidon and Magellan.
Head south at Place du Général-de-Gaulle into the pedestrianized streets of the Opéra neighborhood (bordered by Rue Grignan, Rue Breteuil, and Rue Saint-Ferréol). The quarter is named for its stately theater embellished in Art Deco frescos. Pop into Azul for Mediterranean ceramics and local designer Sessùn for feminine frocks. With more time for lunch, test out Marseille’s dynamic food scene. Dig into Franco-Congolese comfort fare at Libala, a pioneer among the city’s influx of African chefs. The trendy boutique Jogging conceals an Italian trattoria in its secret garden. Nautically kitsch La Boîte à Sardine serves the freshest catch with the bonhomie of a pleasure cruise.
Next to the fish restaurant, St. Vincent-de-Paul (L'Église des Réformés)is a soaring, ivory-colored, Gothic masterpiece, its unique wooden doors carved with vices and virtues. Nearby, on Tuesdays and Saturdays, the outdoor Réformés farmers market brims with Provençal eats. Heading northeast along the Boulevard Longchamp, the gourmet grocery Le Marché des Argonautesis perfect for a quick bite or a drink. Along the street, the majestic Palais Longchamp was erected to celebrate water’s arrival in the city from the Alps. Source of the neighborhood’s name, this neoclassical stunner houses the Musée des Beaux-Arts and its powerful paintings of the plague of 1720 that devastated the city. Back towards the city center, the bohemian neighborhood of Cours Julien is the epicenter of street art. Its colorful buildings are home to vintage boutiques and artisan shops.
Take advantage of a whole day in Marseille to venture beyond the city center. Begin at the monumental Palais du Pharo, a Napoleon-built palace with stellar views of the harbor. From there, bike or walk the Corniche Kennedy coastal road that weaves alongside the sparkling Mediterranean. It takes 20 minutes (0.9 miles) to walk to the charming fishing cove of Vallon des Auffes and the cute Malmousque neighborhood. Continue past the spectacular view of Anse de la Fausse Monnaie beach, cooling off with an artisanal ice cream at the Glacier de la Corniche, another 15 minutes (0.7 miles) along the Corniche.
About eight miles from the Vieux-Port, Les Goudes, at the tip of Marseille, offers a trip to yesteryear. The picturesque fishing village in Calanques National Park is set against limestone cliffs and turquoise coves. Explore the extraordinary landscape on a leisurely amble or athletic hike, and take a dip in the Mediterranean where the sea explorer Jacques Cousteau first got his feet wet. For a sun-soaked lunch, dine on the sea-to-table menu at Le Grand Bar des Goudes, or at the ultra-hip Tuba Club, where you can sunbathe in seaside chaises. In spring and fall, for an unforgettable meal in the setting of an ancient military fort, head to Anse de Maldormé beach on the island of Île DeGaby via a 15-minute ferry ride from Mucem (in summer). Reservations are a must.
Board a ferry to Château d’If, the 17th-century fortress made famous by Alexandre Dumas in his classic tale The Count of Monte Cristo tosee the cells where famous prisoners carved graffiti in the stone walls. Alternatively, visit Cité Radieuse, Le Corbusier’s Brutalist tour de force that resembles a colorful concrete cruise ship. The tourist office offers guided tours in English. Or make an appointment to view the contemporary art in Pavillon Southway.
How to spend an evening
Revered like a religion in Marseille, apérois a convivial way to transition from day to night. Ring in this Provençal happy hour in authentic style with a glass of pastis, the anise-flavored spirit created in Marseille, and panisses, chickpea fritters. Pair apéro with sunsets with rooftop-bar views of the Vieux-Port (Hotel Hermés), city (Ciel), or Mediterranean Sea (Les Bords de Mer).
Marseille serves up memorable gastronomic experiences for every palate. Savor the city’s iconic bouillabaisse at Chez Michel, served by white-coat-clad waiters since 1946. Indulge in a Michelin-starred meal cooked with produce farmed and fished in Provence at Belle de Mars or dine at a park-side hideaway at trendy Sepia. For craft cocktails, pull up a stool at the tiki-chic Bar Gaspard or Carry Nation, a clandestine hangout that requires reservations made in advance. La Caravelle’s line-up of jazz and bossa nova will be music to your ears, or you could watch Olympique de Marseille in action – more than a soccer team, l’OM is the beating heart of the city – alongside 67,000 fans at the UFO-like Vélodrome stadium from August to the end of May.
How to get around
Crystal runs shuttle buses to the nearest town or city on many of its cruises. When onboard, check departure points and times in your copy of our daily bulletin, Reflections.
To book a taxi, please inquire at the Concierge desk. Alternatively, private-hire taxis with Phocea can be booked online. There is a taxi stand in front of the terminals at Porte 4, up to a 12-minute walk depending on your arrival terminal. Note that there can be a wait in high season and traffic can be heavy during rush hour (8am-10am and 4pm-7pm.) To Marseille Provence Airport: 20-30 minutes (12.4 miles)
To the city center (Vieux-Port): 15-25 minutes (5 miles)
Bus services arrive and depart outside Porte 4 at the roundabout. Follow the green path for 10 minutes (0.4 miles) to reach the exit. Two direct bus services run between the terminal and La Joliette. One is a free port shuttle. For your return trip, this bus departs from the white gates marked Grand Port Maritime de Marseille on the south side of the Terrace du Port shopping center.
The other is the public transport service 35T to La Joliette. The Terminal Croisières stop is an additional seven-minute walk (0.3 miles.) See rtm.fr/croisieristes for timetables and fares. Both bus services only run when cruise ships are docked, between around 9:20am and 7:20pm. The 3.6-mile journey to La Joilette takes 15 minutes. From La Joliette, the red M2 metro line and T2 tram line lead to the city center (Vieux-Port) and beyond. Find the metro and tram stops, called Joliette, a minute’s walk across the Place de la Joliette.
The Gare Saint-Charles is 4.5 miles from the port, a 30-minute taxi ride. Trains to Paris (city or airport) take 3-3.5 hours. For timetables and fares, go to www.sncf.com.
Marseille has two metro and three tram lines that traverse the city center and adjoining neighborhoods. You can swipe your credit card to buy single-use tickets on board or purchase paper day passes or multiple tickets at the stations. For prices and trip planning, go to www.rtm.fr.
Rentals are available via Uber or the local city network, Le Vélo. The latter is less expensive yet requires rentals at specific stations (La Joliette is the closest one to the cruise terminals.) Note that Marseille can be hilly. The best places to cycle are along the Corniche Kennedy coastal road, from the Vieux-Port to the beaches, and in the center of town.
Certain parts of Marseille’s oldest neighborhood, Le Panier, have steep streets and stairs. Stick to Rue des Petits Puits and Rue de Panier. You might wish to be accompanied if you use a wheelchair because some streets are bumpy, hilly and a tight squeeze when cars pass. The old island prison of Château d’If is inaccessible to visitors with mobility issues, but many major attractions, such as the MUCEM museum, offer ramp access. It is best to take a taxi to Notre Dame de la Garde to avoid the entrance stairs. Effortless exploring is easier in the city center, in the pedestrianized Opéra neighborhood, around the Vieux-Port harbor, and along the pedestrianized shopping street Rue Sainte-Ferréol. Restaurants with good accessibility include the carnivorous gem La Femme de Boucher and Blum Brasserie, as well as the outdoor terraces along the Vieux-Port and Cours Honoré d’Estienne d’Orves, such as the Mediterranean charmer Safran, and Chez Madie les GalinettesChez Madie les Galinettes, where you can enjoy classic Marseille dishes.
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